Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > General Discussion > Performance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 03-30-2021, 07:06 PM
striper56 striper56 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Niantic CT
Posts: 96
Default

Thanks everyone for the information. It looks like the 2/0 wire is the way to go. One last thought could I run the 2/0 to a block on the transom then switch it to a #1 or 1/0? I think the 2/0 will be a bitch to get through the harness.

I found a guy with the same motor who is willing to do the amp test this weekend. I will report back the results.

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-30-2021, 10:17 PM
erebus's Avatar
erebus erebus is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 416
Default

You can run the 2/0 to a block on the transom and then switch over to the factory outboard battery cables. Very standard install.
I used one of these in the transom with a 3/8 stud:


https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...Dual_PowerPost

I looked on my Sceptre today and I guess I did end up using 1/0 from the batteries to the transom. Oh well, I thought I had used smaller stuff.
Ran the OEM Evinrude cables through the rigging tube and hooked them up to the power posts.
Engine has a dedicated battery. Used an Automatic Charging Relay to charge the house battery. Batteries are under the floor by the helm.
__________________
Zachary
1979 23 Sceptre (in progress)
1975 18SF (Mostly restored, now sold)


Last edited by erebus; 03-30-2021 at 10:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-31-2021, 07:32 AM
Old'sCool's Avatar
Old'sCool Old'sCool is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 1,990
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by striper56 View Post
Thanks everyone for the information. It looks like the 2/0 wire is the way to go. One last thought could I run the 2/0 to a block on the transom then switch it to a #1 or 1/0? I think the 2/0 will be a bitch to get through the harness.

I found a guy with the same motor who is willing to do the amp test this weekend. I will report back the results.

Thanks
You need to calculate the load. What you're suggesting will negate the larger wiring on the longest run.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-06-2021, 01:06 PM
Surfnski's Avatar
Surfnski Surfnski is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 73
Default

I wouldn't try running 2/0 through the rigging tube, splice lugs at the transom is the way to go. Another thing to consider is shortening the factory leads if you have a large amount of excess coiled up at the transom.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-06-2021, 04:05 PM
kmoose's Avatar
kmoose kmoose is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 1,767
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old'sCool View Post
You need to calculate the load. What you're suggesting will negate the larger wiring on the longest run.
Actually it will not. As long as the smaller tap cable is on the load side you will negate the majority of the line loss in the 2/0 running from the front to the connection point at the transom. I also agree that ridding any excess coiled wire from the motor feed is best. Wire coils are chokes (resistors) and add to the load.
__________________
1974 23 Tsunami w/ 300 Suzuki
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
All original content 2003-2018 ClassicSeacraft