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  #21  
Old 08-19-2019, 03:44 PM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Quite awhile. The previous owner just got in over his head I think. The outboard had an overheating issue. Then water and termite damage. It just got away. He was nearly in tears the day we hauled it off.

On another note. Itís registered as a 72 on my paperwork. This model predates hidís. I found this data on the sticker on the helm. Any ideas on decoding it?

Model: 25 CTO (maybe CIO). Serial: 25037. The serial seems self explanatory.

No hid on transom and havenít found it elsewhere. Any suggestions appreciated
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  #22  
Old 08-19-2019, 10:49 PM
Bigshrimpin Bigshrimpin is offline
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Does the sticker look like this?
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2019, 10:51 PM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Yes, exactly except mine is in center of helm...
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2019, 05:06 PM
cdavisdb cdavisdb is offline
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Mine has the same label. Its is a 1972, serial no 25034, model no 25 CTO. Fla registration shows FLZE5594A572-25034. Not sure when the state came up with that number.

Notice the weight for engines/gas and passengers. They needed so much weight for those two 165 1/0s most of the boats came with that there wasn't much left over for passengers. Mine, with a single 350 easily carries more weight in passengers and gear. The total is still within the sum of those two numbers.
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  #25  
Old 08-25-2019, 06:36 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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So weather has not cooperated to do fiberglassing. It’s been upper 80’s and low 90’s with rain on the right temp days....

Was able to:
1. remove foreword bulkhead and cut it’s replacement out.
2. Grind down the stringers.
a. Dagger had a 4” board maybe a 2x4 once upon a time for the shelf support will never know b/c it was mush.
b. Grind down adjacent stringers- there was a piece of wood and a fiberglass shelf installed (looks like non oem to me)
3. Tabbing looks good under deck but may reinforce when I do bulkheads
4. Cutout new dagger “risers” out of thermolite (read coosa board) no coosa suppliers on my island but it’s the same idea foam and fiberglass board.
5. Began sanding the deck down... just ruined my 3rd orbital sander on this project... going to buy 2 more Monday. Very proud of my 10 y/o son who’s been out there with me sanding and helping me cut and make bulkheads.
6. Pressure tested the fuel tanks- no leaks.

Not pictured I cut a 3” piece of hdpe in half and will make channel ways for water on the hull... once I figure how to cut them out. I have a drum sander attachment for a drill/Dremel tool. Now where is it?!







It’s been a hot/itchy week.

Last edited by Xcomunic8d; 08-25-2019 at 06:41 AM. Reason: Grammar
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2020, 03:16 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Time for another update. Plus side of corona is I have more time to work on it.

All bulkheads swapped out and installed
Limber holes cut in.
Rear cap was reattached (cut off for transom)
Rear decks re-installed
Bow rail removed
Windshield, port lights etc removed
Sanded Surfaces to 320 grit.
-on my 5th orbital sander
- still have to take boat off trailer and sand bottom.

Here’s pics of the teak work. Yes natural teak and varnish are not good mixes. Key is sealing the wood to keep oil in and water out. Either one can and will make varnish crack.

Yes, someone cut one of the racks. I don’t have the pieces and I don’t have time to rebuild it at the moment. One day I plan too.

Had to strip all the paint off of them. Used jabsco, Watco refinisher, putty knife, 0000 steel wool, and sand paper. Did wonders on the racks and the door. Wish I had better pics of that before and after.







Sanded to 320
3-5 coats of teak oil
3-5 coats of amber (waxed) shellac. 800 grit between coats. I love the amber on teak. Shellac is alcohol based and dries very fast. If you get runs, use shellac or denatured alcohol to level off.

5-6 coats Pettit flagship varnish- used 800 grit between coats. 2000 on last coats and still need to buff with compound and buffer.









More to come. I’ve been fairing and sanding and fairing and sanding.
Should have decks and hatches done soon
Will take off the trailer and paint soon...

Last edited by Xcomunic8d; 04-08-2020 at 03:21 AM. Reason: Left out process
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2020, 03:32 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Windows are on the agenda.

Removed all glass from front and is in good shape with some cleaning.

All 4 plexiglass pieces are 4 different thicknesses. Iíve read factory is 3/16Ē and Iíve read 1/4Ē.

Ironically, not one piece is 3/16Ē that I removed. .152, .220, .243, .258
3/16Ē is .1875. So Iím at a complete loss.

Also I called American marine. The rep couldnít tell me how much to use but did send me samples.

To-139 looks to be right thing. For portlights, triangular plexiglass pieces, and front windshield glass). The cable channel on back of windshield is something else. Iíll update once I find it again. Downside is they told me it is $5/ft.

Any other sources?
Any actual lengths to buy? Looks like 17-20í for both portlights, 17-20í for each triangular plexiglass and havenít added up the four pieces for windshield but looks like a lot...

Thatís $300 before the 4 pieces and that would make it $500ish Iím guessing.
Suggestions?

Anybody tried black silicone instead? Just saying...
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2020, 06:51 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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Awesome job on the teak!
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  #29  
Old 04-10-2020, 04:23 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Thank you, sir. Very kind of you.
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  #30  
Old 04-11-2020, 04:22 PM
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strick strick is offline
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Got your phone call sorry for not responding...been busy...I don’t know how thick the glass was on my 25 Safari because it’s been so long ago that I sold it...you’re going to want to use the American marine inserts as they are the original manufacturers for seacraft. I used tempered glass on all my windows but Plexiglass should work...good luck!

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